The Most Lovely Scene In The World

Edward travelled south from Messina to Catania whereas we headed north to see the same sights. He took several days but we could do it in a couple of hours on the bus. He describes the scenery south of Messina as the most lovely in the world...every turn of the road brought fresh beauties to view, keeping us in a constant rapture of admiration. All that was required to perfect the loveliness of the scenery was sunshine but that we were not destined to enjoy. He was on the money about the view and luckily for us we were enjoying sunshine. We haven't seen a drop of rain in the 10 days we've been here. Good for us although not good for the locals as apparently this is a drought in what is normally their rainy season.

Edward describes that as they traveled they were frequently stopped by a well-dressed official in full military uniform who were ostensibly doing customs inspections as they were leaving one province and entering another. However, their carriage driver explained that if they made a small financial contribution to the official, the inspections could be dispensed with. Today, Italy is still blessed with a plethora of police forces. There are local and state police, city police, the ubiquitous Carabineiri national police and even a Finance Police who apparently investigate financial crimes. All carry prominent firearms and in Catania in particular spent the day rushing from one location to another on foot, horseback, motor bike or car, but with no especial purpose at their destinations. They still dress smartly too. (Maltese police, like British general duties coppers, are unarmed and I think it always makes a place seem much nicer when that's the case.)

Edward's first overnight stop was Gardino, a straggling, dirty little town close to the sea. Today it's full of cheap beach hotels and restaurants but still uninspiring. The attraction here is Taormina, an ancient town on a hillside above. Edward hired donkeys and after an hour's climbing by a narrow paved way, cut in zigzags up the steep acclivity, he was there. Our full sized bus valiantly made it's way up what I'm guessing is pretty well the same zigzag, skillfully making it's way up each zig and zag by hooting and crossing to the wrong side of the road, which cars coming the other way graciously accommodated.

View from Taormina to Gardino with Etna in background

In Taormina there is an ampitheatre with an amazing view over, the ocean, Gardino, Mt Etna and looking upward, to the castle of Mola. Edward had planned to climb all the way up to Mola the following day but the weather was bad so he called it off. Looking at the projected climb I suspect he was relieved by the bad weather. I was certainly relieved that as he hadn't gone, we didn't have to either. No one hires donkeys for the trip anymore anyway. Edward mentions buying a painting of the ampitheatre from the old custode. I wonder if some descendant still has it today because it is a striking and peculiar scene. 

Taormina ampitheatre with Mola castle on the central hill above

We had a stroll around Taormina and found hotels where Oscar Wilde and DH Lawrence stayed after Edward's time and we also found the site of some Roman Baths, also excavated after his visit. The bus to Taormina cost 8.30euro and while waiting for the bus at a particularly nice, and sensibly priced, bus drivers cafe next to the terminal (always follow the bus drivers for a good deal), we got chatting to a Polish uni student who had flown all the way to Sicily on a cheap fare of 20euro!

At dinner that night, we were entertained by a street busker playing guitar and singing old favourites. Edward often describes encountering street musicians playing traditional music in Sicily but this was one of the few street musicians we encountered and he was English. We were also approached by an English tourist who asked us if we'd heard that Covid19 had reached Sicily. Apart from a couple of German tourists wearing masks on the bus today, that's was the only sign that it's on the horizon at that stage.