Hipsters Ain't All Bad

Perhaps Edward should have stayed in Enna. His next overnight stay, in Santa Catarina copped the biggest serve he had offered since my hometown of Albany. Bad as our accommodation last night, the prospect is worse here-more fleas and more dirt-the chilly floor of red tiles looks as though it had never known a broom, and the filthy stained walls may have been ignorant of paint or whitewash since the house was built. 

The landlady, fat,dirty and cross, was in such an ill-temper, as the arrival of guests even, failed to molify, supper was tardily prepared. 

For our part, we had a delightful dinner with the ancient chef and a pleasant night apart from the chatter of naughty children. Breakfast was included via a voucher for a coffee and pastry at a nearby cafe and once that was consumed we set out to walk down the footpath of the winding road to Enna Bassa (the old town on the summit being Enna Alta) to book a bus for Agrigento. At the cafe opposite the Enna Bassa terminal we learned that they weren't selling tickets in advance "because of the coronavirus". This was the first real evidence that coronavirus was going to be an issue in southern Italy as well as the north. Presumably the bus companies didn't want to sell advance tickets that they would later have to refund if services stop. The cafe owner suggested we come back on Monday and buy a ticket then. 

Enna's castle from Enna Basso. A hearty stroll.

There was no way that we were going to walk back up the hill as Edward had done, so we took the bus. Once back at the old city we visited the Norman Castle of Lombardy. It was closed for repairs so we just admired it from the outside and then looked over the Roman Temple of Ceres. Both are at the peak of the summit and had amazing views in almost every direction. No one was going to sneak up on these guys. Both were deserted so maybe Enna still doesn't get a lot of tourists. 

The rock at Enna's summit upon which the Roman Temple of Ceres was built. Not much is left but it's still an awesome site. 

That evening the town centre was full of life and in contrast to last nights traditional Sicilian trattoria and meal we dined at a place on the main piazza,  called Pacco Mora. This was an ultra modern hipster establishment, specialising in avant garde vegetarian dishes but with traditional Sicilian themes. They had a tasting plate for two which contained such delights as a tiny bowls of chick pea and onion soup, little spinach tarts and an artichoke pate. They also had organic wines and interesting bottled non alcoholic drinks including a delightful ginger ale. I was prepared to pay big and leave unsatisfied but we struggled to finish it all and the bill came to no more than the previous night. Being of a generation that finds taking pictures of your food and  writing reviews about it, a bit odd, I don't usually do restaurant reviews but  I was so impressed that I was moved to write my second ever TripAdvisor review (my first being for the Glen Innes Caravan Park and associated Fish and Chip shop-visit them if you're ever up that way). The service was exemplary too. An owner waiter with good English  gave informative descriptions of everything and was definitely not dirty or cross.  I told him how impressed we were and promised to write a glowing review.  If you're ever in Enna, check it out.

I should mention that the much vaunted Italian cuisine is not all it's cracked up to be. While there are some delicious dishes available (we had some fantastic cannoli and the Sicilians make a delicious flaky pastry with ham, cheese and tomato inside), there is not much imagination or variety shown. Whether cheap or expensive, a tomato salad is usually chopped tomato with olive oil, salt and perhaps garlic sprinkled over it. A mixed salad is that with some lettuce next to it. I can do that at home guys.  Every pasticceria serves an identical range, only changing as you change regions. And restaurant menus tend to all offer similar things, very simply prepared.  I suppose having spent 2000 years or more developing their cuisine they see no reason to change. I've often reflected that one of the best things about Australia is that we take other peoples cuisines and make them better. In Australia Italian food is better than Italy. Chinese food better than China and Indian food better than India. So places like Pacco Mora are definitely worth finding.