All That Glitters Might Be Gold

Never was there a more priest-ridden community than this of Malta; the number of handsome churches seen in all parts of the island is something extraordinary for a population of a hundred thousand souls; the Church possesses a third of the lands, and priests are seen everywhere in swarms, Edward observed. He was right about the churches, there being a magnificent one on every corner. Whether the Church still owns a third of the land I don't know, but the priests are gone. We saw the odd priest or nun, primarily around church premises but not many. On the first Sunday we arrived, church attendance in the ones we passed appeared similar to that in old style churches in Australia; a few old couples, the odd family but lots of empty pews.

We visited St John's Cathederal where the degree to which the Maltese once loved (or feared) their god was clearly apparent. With ceiling frescos that took 6 years to paint and gilding that must be worth a fortune everywhere, it was awesome. I say feared because it seems they had a gruesome god from some of the macabre scenes. A cute little Cupid style angel standing with a foot each on a turban and a skull comes to mind.

St John's Cathederal

After visiting the Cathederal we took a trip across the island to the Blue Grotto, a celebrated natural sea arch which you can take a 30 minute trip through in a traditional style fishing dingy. At 8euro a head and 8 passengers a trip with a steady stream of  boats going at about 10 minute intervals, even in this their low season, it's unlikely that many of the local fishermen still go fishing. Tourists are a much more lucrative catch. We took our turn around and the water is undoubtedly a brilliant shade of blue. Apart from the arch which you putter under, there are several sea caves where your hand turns blue if you submerge it. The Mediterranean waters in general are startlingly clear and surprisingly clean. Edward doesn't specifically mention visiting the Grotto but given he spent nearly 2 months here, learning Italian in readiness for his trip through Italy, it is likely he did. He did say that Rides, and early walks, with picnics and parties...have agreeably filled up the time...and I have left scarcely a corner of the island unexplored. 

Blue Grotto

Edward also observed that considering the length of time that Malta has been a British possession, it appears surprising that the English language should be so little spoken or understood by the people of the island. He noted that only the uneducated spoke Maltese which is a corrupt Arabic, everyone else speaking primarily Italian and sometimes French. He thought it extraordinary that Italian should be adopted instead of English. He'd be pleased to find today that English is spoken everywhere, to the extent that I didn't bother with the customary, polite "do you speak English" because everyone does.

This evening we went to a free lecture at the National Library given by 2 postgrad students from the local university on Social Conditions of 17th Century Malta, as interpreted from a contemporary Notary's  journal and surviving petitions to the Knights, from various members of the public. The lecture was given in English which I guess is worldwide the language of science and academia. In the 17th Century Malta had a very heirarchical system, ruled by the Knights of St John, but they also had what appeared to be benevolent systems of social supports. Amongst the petitions there were several from indigent persons such as widows and orphans who requesed, and recieved, plots of land to live on. Can't imagine Centrelink giving out land to the unemployed. The lecture included a very pleasant supper of hors d'oeuvre and wine so that was dinner taken care of.