There's a Bower of Roses by Bendemeer's Stream

Well Edward is travelling faster than us now. He made it from his camp outside Ebor, to the Cockburn River at the foot of Moonbi Pass, just north of Tamworth, in 3 days. We have taken 6 but then as I've mentioned, we are travelling in a more leisurely fashion. We spent 2 days in Uralla and then digressed somewhat from Edward's route to visit Walcha (pronounced Walka as the locals were quick to remind me. Somewhat like the Albanian task of reminding the rest of Australia that we pronounce it Al-bany. If it was All-bany we'd have put two l's in, wouldn't we?) for 2 nights.

Walcha is the oldest town in New England, settled in 1832 after John Oxley came through in 1818. Being off the main north road perhaps, it didn't grow to the extent of places like Tamworth and Armidale and is still a bucolic little country town with an exceptionally friendly population. It was almost like a being in a movie version of a small country town. Virtually everyone said hello and made some passing comment as we passed them in the street. They also have a great love of sculpture. A number of locals sculpt in their spare time and as a result, they have developed a sculpture trail around the town. Worth visiting for that alone.

We were so absorbed by Walcha's sculptures that we didn't photogaph any! We did take one of Matilda visiting Apsley Falls, just south west of town, however.

From Walcha we returned to Edward's original route, heading to Bendemeer. When Edward passed through it was known as McDonald River after the overseer of the local station. In 1856 the name was changed to Bendemeer. Despite the sound of it, that's not an Aboriginal name, but a line from a 17th century poem by Sir Thomas Moore.

Bendemeer's quiet main street.

Although being the first town Edward mentions since leaving home, Bendemeer has remained a little hamlet. He passed the little village ... during the forenoon and he sent Smith to procure a further supply of flour and beef.  We likewise passed in the forenoon and procured coffee and the nicest vanilla slices we've tasted since leaving home (and I know my vanilla slices) from their very busy (must be the vanilla slices) general store cum coffee shop. As far as the general store staff and patrons could tell us, nothing remains from Edwards time, the oldest building remaining being an 1864 church. A book of local history that the Store helpfully had available said that there had been a store in town from 1847, although the exact location isn't know, and from 1845 there had been a hotel with the delightful name "Help Me Thru Life". Poetic folk in Bendemeer.

Bendemeer's not so quiet 1872 General Store.

Moving on, Edward came to Moonby Pass and looked gladly down upon the broad warm valleys of the Cockburn and Peel Rivers. Great coats and comforters were now thrown off the climate at the foot of the Pass being noticeably warmer than at the top. Just as Edward passed through in an unseasonably cold year, the weather forcast for the next few days is for extreme cold and possible snow. The Walcha Caravan Park owner told us all his cabins are booked out tonight by families coming in the hope of seeing the predicted snow. For our part we were keen to not get snowed on so we have moved on to Tamworth at the foot of the Pass and it is in fact warmer. Edward also talks about the green of the pastures, it having been a wet year when he was travelling. At present though, they have endured several years of drought so all is a sad brown.

The road down Moonbi Pass today. Bet Edward would be impressed.

Tamworth is surprisingly big for an inland town, more than 70,000 and according to the locals, still growing. Who knew that Country Music could be such a stimulus? From the number of motels and accommodation options around it appears they get a lot of tourists and yet their, recently established, Visitor Centre is one of the worst we have ever encountered. Stuck in the middle of a fast food, theme pub and gift shop complex, with no access for caravans it's laid out like a council front office and makes you feel like you've been sucked into a "tourist trap" that you can't get out of quick enough.