Friday 19 September 2014

See Australia from the Saddle of a Bike

It's been a little while since I've been here. I won't be able to commence my trip until about May next year because I'm committed to being in Albany for the summer tourist season. I do wine tasting & cellar sales for Wignalls Wines over summer so hopefully I can get going once the cellar closes. As a result I haven't had much to add to the trip but never-the-less it is still a constant theme for my day dreams.

However, I have just finished a five day trip back from Perth by bicycle and I'm inspired. Travelling by bike is the ideal speed. Walking is a bit too slow for me. I get bored with the time it takes for the scene to change. Plus walking makes my feet and back sore over long distances.

In a car everything just whizzes by and you are insulated from the sounds and smell of what you pass. A bike though covers ground at a reasonable rate, without insulating you. I now know what canola smells like! I'm used to the delightful sight of rolling paddocks of canola but have never smelt it before. It's not an especially fragrant scent. Kind of reminiscent of fresh tar but at least I know.

On the bike you see the wildlife too. Travelling relatively silently I surprised emus, roos, a fox (should've seen the look on his face), a couple of snakes and myriad bobtails & birds. I was serenaded  most of the way by 28's (western rosellas that go 28, 28, 28), black cockys & the occasional galah. Being spring I did get swooped by about a dozen magpies but you feel reasonably secure under your helmet and the quality of their warble makes it easy to forgive them.

I only did about 60 to 80 kilometres a day which was enough to get the blood flowing without being too debilitating apart from a bit of a sore bum by the end of day. Trish my lovely wife came as support crew in the car. She makes dolls so was happy to while away her spare hours doing that and wandering round op shops in the towns we passed through. That was nice because she could collect me and transport me over the bits I didn't want to do.

We stayed in country pubs & caravan parks and enjoyed aspects of country life you miss when you fly through by car. Went to a quiz night in Darkan and watched the Dockers loose the finals (sob) at the Kojonup pub.

So now I'm inspired to do the Grafton to Newcastle section of Edward's trip by bicycle. I have ridden horses a bit in the past but from that I know that riding is something that you need to be in practice to do. Plus accessing and managing horses for a trip like that would be quite a task. I was just going to do it by car but now I figure that a bike will allow me to experience the country in a manner closer to Edward's experience. Can't wait.

Thursday 17 July 2014

A Bush Education

As I was scanning the second volume of Edward's Diary, the process was slow enough for me to read each page as I went. (Luckily each page is brief.) In doing so I was struck by how well educated and literate he was.

The diary is very readable and he displays a good knowledge of classical history, geography and world events, along with a grasp of French and Latin. His awareness of the Crimean War was also interesting in that at that stage news of events from Europe would take several months to reach Sydney, let alone the far reaches of the colony in places like the Upper Clarence. Obviously he kept himself up to date on such matters.

Clearly Edward was an intelligent man with an enquiring mind. He took advantage of some of the down time on his trip to take lessons in Italian in order to make the most of his time in that country. Just the fact that he made such an extensive trip also demonstrates his thirst for knowledge.

What strikes me though is that from his biographical details, Edward had little or no formal schooling. He arrived in New South Wales at the age of 10, and while he may have had some schooling before leaving England, on arrival it was not long before he travelled with his family to what was then the outer reaches of the Upper Hawkesbury.

There it would appear his education was solely in the hands of his parents Mary and William. It also seems that from an early age he was an active participant in the daily work of their developing property, which while it would have provided much practical education in farming and bushcraft, would have left little time for the 3 R's. It is also likely that both his parents would have had their hands full with the demands of developing a farm in such arduous conditions. That education was a parental responsibility is evident in that other family members happiest reminiscences included evening lessons in such things as Ancient Greek with their father.

While there are home schooled children today who achieve high levels of education, particularly if managed by enthusiastic and academic parents, I am struck by the comparison to modern complaints that rural children are disadvantaged by a lack of access to high quality educational resources. I certainly wouldn't wish to discount the benefits of striving to improve education but clearly Edward demonstrates that there are other factors at work. I guess it is a demonstration of the enduring benefits of parental input and the advantages of a committed, caring family life. Well done Mary and William. You did a good job with the boy.

Thursday 19 June 2014

A Diary the Size of my Little Finger

While Vol. 1 of Edward's Diary is available as a free Google ebook, Vol. 2 is not. I've got facsimile copies of both volumes but I don't want to have to cart them around when I start travelling in Edward's footsteps so I needed to get Vol. 2 in digital form. Not having a scanner I initially contemplated manually typing it into my computer. That seemed like a pretty major task but I figured that Edward would have written it all long hand himself and then his printer would have had a probably more time consuming task of typesetting it all word by word, so I didn't want to seem like a modern day sissy.

Fortunately, however, I was able to get access to a scanner through the Albany Historical Society (thanks guys) so now I am sitting in an office in Albany's Old Convict Gaol, scanning Vol. 2 onto a thumb drive. What would Edward have made of such a marvelous little device that could hold his entire diary, and much much more, in something about the size of his little finger.

Yesterday too, I was at the printers, arranging the typesetting of cafe newsletter that I have a hand in. I was marveling at the way in which the printer was whizzing around his keyboard, achieving in seconds what typesetters would have needed hours for just a couple of decades ago.

So in word processing, information retrieval and printing we've come a long way but not necessarily so with everything. As I mentioned, I'm in the Old Gaol. The initial part of this building was the original convict depot, constructed in 1852 so it would have been here when Edward visited in 1854. He doesn't mention it but it would likely have been visible as he made his way up from the jetty and he does mention the convicts.

While modern buildings have some improved materials and techniques, they built places to last in 1854. Its been renovated in recent times but some of the brickwork in this place looks like it went up yesterday and they really had the right idea about climate control. With thick walls, high ceilings and steep roofs, unless there is a run of exceptionally hot or cold days, this place remains a constant and reasonable temperature.

                                                       Albany's Old Convict Gaol

Friday 13 June 2014

Documentary Film Production 101

Yesterday was educational. Met with Cath, my daughter's producer friend, who over a glass of sparkling water in a Leederville cafe, gave me a potted education in the process by which documentaries are made. To Cath's way of thinking the idea needs some more development before it would be likely to be taken up as a commercially viable project but she gave some helpful ideas on possible "hooks" on which such a project could be based.
More importantly she outlined who locally might be able to be involved and some of the costs and pitfalls associated with documentary making so in all a profitable afternoon.
Perhaps most important of all, the discussion with Cath got me thinking more about a variety of aspects of the project, all of which is useful because the more I think about it the further the journey is likely to progress. I'm often refer to myself as "an ideas man" meaning that I get ideas but don't always pursue them. I'm lazy. I like to come up with the idea but when it comes to the hard work of progressing it... that doesn't always happen. (One of my ideas once was to sell ideas to other people. Never did it, but a top idea. See how my thinking works?)
This journey is one idea though that I am determined to follow through. My bets are hedged a bit in that what I am committing to is to recreate Edward's trip. That I will do. The incidental bits as to how I record it are still up for debate but in talking to Cath I'm pretty sure I will be able to film it on some level. Whether that be a "home movie" or a full fledged documentary, only time will tell.
As a side issue to my thinking about the trip, I have thought about the many other descendants of Edward Ogilvie and wondered whether I should try and track some down and see if I can find anyone else who is interested in taking this journey with me. Co-incidentally Cath mentioned that one of the principals of a local production company is an Ogilvie. Might he be from the same line of Ogilvie's? Won't that be a spooky co-incidence? As Edward had 8 daughters most of his descendants don't carry the Ogilvie name but who knows?

Tuesday 3 June 2014

Every Journey Starts With a Single Step

So how do I do this? Planning this project has definitely become a constant theme of my day dreams. I'm constantly thinking about the best way to make this trip and to document it. Do I try and do it as Edward did, as one continuous trip, or do I do it in stages? Do I try and recreate it exactly as he did? Travel by horse where he traveled by horse, by ship where he did etc, etc?

An exact re-creation was ruled out pretty quick. While I was a fair horseman back in the day, I haven't been aboard a nag for more than a decade and from experience I know that riding is not a physically soft task. Old Edward might have been out riding the day he died aged 81 but he had been doing it pretty well every day of his life till then and was undoubtedly a harder man than I. On that basis I was ruling out sleeping under the stars, with a few blankets on a mattress of brush too. Like I said. Tougher than me.

It is still possible to travel by P&O from Sydney to Southampton via the Mediterranean on a similar, but not exact, route as Edward. At around $8,000 that isn't a cheap option although Edward quoted 150 Pounds as the full fare to England in a shared cabin. That converted roughly to current figures is about $12,000. However, probably the principal obstacle to this method is that today, P&O cruise ships only stop for a day or so in most of the ports and there is no hop-on, hop-off option. There might be only one or two cruises per annual season. In Edward's day, there was a ship along on this, the major mail route, at least every six weeks and you could miss one and catch the next. To explore each destination to the same extent as Edward did would not be possible in a day or so, so a P&O cruise is out. Who said the world is necessarily a smaller place?

So it seems that an exact re-creation is off the table. However, I am still pondering whether I need to make the trip in one continuous effort and if the impact will be the same doing it in separate stages. No decision on that yet.

Next question is how do I document my "travels". Well this blog seems to be up and running so that is the bottom line. Do I add to that though? Does blog morph into book?  Do I film it? There will be photos on the blog 'cos that's easily achieved but what about a documentary? Is it interesting enough to consider a full scale documentary? How do you achieve that? What would it cost? To resolve some of those questions, my lovely daughter Cushla who is a radio producer with a myriad of media contacts has lined up for me to meet with a documentary producer to suss out some of those issues.

Who knows? At this stage the only definite is that I will do it...for my own interest and pleasure. Exactly how, and how to document, remains to be concluded. I guess I just follow my nose and see what happens. Stay tuned...

Wednesday 28 May 2014

How I Became a Gentleman

Reading other blogs, it seems to me that much of the process of blogging is "thinking out loud". Forgive me then if that is what I do. Hopefully it will help keep me on track & focused on this project.

What got me started on this? I'm in the fortunate position that I don't need to work for a living. I describe myself as a "gentleman historian". In reading Australian history I found that 100 years ago the term gentleman was used to describe what we now call "self funded retiree". People, well ok... men, over a period of years would go from listing their occupation as farmer, shopkeeper etc to gentleman, meaning that they now had sufficient funds to not have to work any more.

I kind of liked the sound of that. Having quit full time work at an age too early to want to refer to myself as "retired" I'm always a little hesitant when people ask me what I do. "Self funded retiree" always makes me think of folk who write grumpy letters to the paper starting "As a self funded retiree....", going on to complain about being the most neglected group in society in some regard and I didn't want to be associated with that.

Gentleman sounded a little more cheerful and optomistic, as well as pretty smooth. A bit wanky I know but I I can be a bit of a wanker at times. Gentleman historian seemed to reflect how I was spending increasing amounts of my time.

However, the down side of being a gentleman is a lack of focus. I'm not looking for sympathy and know I won't get it but not working isn't all its cracked up to be. It's been said that the key to happiness is someone to love, something to do and something to look forward to. I am fortunate to very much have the first in my wife and family. I made an effort to find the second as much as possible but the third was eluding me until I read Edward's diary and was struck with the notion of recreating his trip. It gave me both something to do and something to look forward to. I am happier as a result.

Wednesday 21 May 2014

Edward in a Nutshell

It has occurred to me that I probably need to tell something of Edward's life story because I am going to be referring frequently to various parts of it and while I know it well, others obviously don't.
I figure that the easiest way to do this is via his entry in the Australian Dictionary of Biography which can be found at adb.anu.edu.au/biography/ogilvie-edward-david-stewart-777
Now remember, I'm a blogging neophyte and my internet skills leave much to be desired so if this link doesn't work, just search for Edward David Stewart Ogilvie in the Australian Dictionary of Biography.
The Biography is pretty dry but sums up all the important dates and events in his life. To me perhaps the most interesting personal events in his life concern the deaths of both Edward and his wife Theodosia.
His trip back to England in 1854 seems in part to be to find a suitable wife. In this he was staggeringly successful because Theodosia was very beautiful and over 20 years his junior. Back at Yulgilbar she then bore Edward 11 children over the next 2 decades. However, life just over a century ago was hard. Giving birth to her last child, Theodosia's hip was broken! The baby died shortly thereafter and Theodosia's health was never the same again. She lived for another 9 years but was never able to walk again.
In Edward's case, tough old bushman that he was, he died after being thrown from a horse that bolted when spooked by a train. If you've ever ridden a horse, you will know that doing so at 81 years of age is no mean feat.
What's that saying about dying an interesting death? They both had that.

Edward & Me

A very human emotion is to understand where we come from, what made us. Clearly people from all times and races have thought much about their ancestors. I often think that one of the hardest things about being adopted would be a lack of even the most basic knowledge of such things. Knowing something of your past is evidenced by the universal fascination with family history, both your own and other peoples so I don't think I'm an orphan in wondering about my ancestors' actions, thoughts and emotions.

I feel fortunate that Edward's life is quite extensively documented in both his Diary and Squatter's Castle. Reading those works I constantly put myself in his place and wonder how I would have reacted to the world he lived in. I feel an empathy with him that I don't feel with other historical figures. I feel that I'm part of him and he is part of me.

Ego-centric I know because Edward by now has a vast number of descendants, all perhaps very different people but are we. Is there something that connects us all through Edward?

For example Edward was a member of the NSW colonial parliament and clearly a man who wished to see his views hold sway in society. He was dynastic in the way he built his "castle" and then attempted through his will to see it and it's associated "estate", passed on via a form of primogeniture to descendants who continued the name of Ogilvie even through a maternal line. I suspect Edward would be vastly proud of the fact that his descendants include a Deputy Prime Minister, a Supreme Court Judge and other movers and shakers such as politicians and social leaders. So is that for instance a trait that Edward has passed on?

While that is not a characteristic I possess strongly enough to see me in that sort of position, I think that what I do share with Edward is a curiosity about the world that makes me constantly day dream about seeing parts other than home. However, like Edward I'm torn between wanting to see the world but  with a love of the familiar and home. Listen to his thoughts as he turns to view his home from the last vantage point as he commences his journey; 
I turned away with a sad heart, for although this voyage to Europe had for years been the dearest object of my wishes,  and constant theme of my day-dreams ; yet, now that the long-wished-for moment had arrived, I felt reluctant to leave a spot associated with so many remembrances of
successful enterprise and requited toil, endeared too by crowding recollections of joy
and sadness, happiness and sorrow,

I couldn't describe better the emotion I feel every time I set out on a journey from home.

Stepping into the Unknown

In 1854, having made his fortune as a squatter from his station Yulgilbar on the upper Clarence in NSW, my great, great grandfather Edward David Stewart Ogilvie, set out to travel back to England. His life story has been ably documented in the book Squatters Castle by George Farwell so I don't intend repeating all of that here but on completing his journey, he vanity published the diary of his travels. In his own words he did so because;

Before leaving my distant home at the Antipodes, many kind friends expressed a wish that I should commit to writing, for their amusement, my impressions of the various scenes and wonders I was about to visit in the course of a pilgrimage which was to lead me over many of the most interesting portions of the Old World.
The following "Diary" has been the result, and, as too frequently happens in like cases, my views having become more ambitious as my task proceeded, I have yielded to the prevalent inclination to print, and now add my Book of Travels to the legion of works of a like character which encumber the shelves of every Book- seller from Bond Street to Paternoster Row.
Whether in this I have acted with wisdom or otherwise, the event will determine ; but should the "Diary" find readers among the public, I trust that the above remarks may be deemed a sufficient excuse, where feelings, or incidents, have been recorded, or dwelt upon, which can possess little
interest for any but the personal friends
of
THE AUTHOR. 


Perhaps the best known image of Edward is this portrait he commissioned from  Tom Roberts, forty years after his trip.

I don't know if Edward did find many readers amongst the public but when I went on an internet search of antiquarian book sellers to see if I could find a copy of his "Diary" I couldn't find any. However, thanks again to the wonders of the internet, I did discover that you could access the first volume online and purchase copies of modern prints of both, courtesy of those publishers who reproduce out of copyright works. By this path I was able to read my ancestors words.

Until I did so, I hadn't realised that Edward had been to Albany in Western Australia, my own home for the last three decades. Reading his description of this place, at that time commonly known as King Georges Sound, was so fascinating that the idea came to me that I should follow his tracks, comparing the places he visited then with now.

Perhaps if Edward were alive today, he would have resorted to "the legion of works of a like character" that now appear as blogs so that is the option I chose to document my journey, hopefully for the amusement of my own kind friends.

This then is the opening post in what I hope turns into an adventure for me and a tribute to a remarkable man.