South to Galle

While travel times for getting to Sri Lanka have reduced markedly in the last 160 years, internal travel times have not . Edward travelled from Galle to Colombo, a distance of about 100 kms in about 12 hours. Railways not having arrived in Sri Lanka, he travelled by horse drawn coach, changing horses about every 12kms. Edward felt the local horses looked to be well bred but seemed overworked and underfed by Australian standards.

We took the train but Sri Lankan trains travel slowly and the same distance took about 3 hours. The trains likewise seem overworked compared to Australian ones. Edward must have followed a similar route to what the train takes today because he mentions the road following the coast most of the way, as does the railway. One big change is the cost. Edward paid 50/- for a seat on the mail coach. That would equate to at least $200 today, while we paid just under $2.

Where Edward would've come ashore, looking back to Galle town.

He describes long stretches of rural area and passing through long stretches of coconut groves. Today there are still lots of coconut trees but it is built up for most of the route. Sri Lanka had a population of about 2 million in 1854 and now has about 22 million. Interestingly Australia had a population of around 650,000 and now has 24 million so the notion of Asian populations increasing like rabbits is not so accurate. He describes large numbers of people on the roads, mostly walking but some in ox carts. Today the roads are still crowded but by cars, buses and tuk tuks although there are still plenty of pedestrians.

The old Dutch gate into  Galle Fort, through which Edward would've passed.

His pace of travel allowed Edward to observe and comment on Sri Lankan lifestyle and industry and the appearance of the locals. He comments on the lustrous, long black hair on both men and women and that still prevails, particularly with women. Most women have long hair, often long enough to sit on, and the men clearly take pride in their hair with a high proportion of stylish cuts and colourings.

There are several reasonably large rivers along the way from Galle to Colombo. Whether Edward's coach crossed by bridges or ferries he doesn't mention. The halfway station in Edward's day was Bentotte (now Bentota). On his return trip, Edward sampled fried oysters there and suffered a cholera-like gastro as a result. The first question the doctor he consulted asked "Had I eaten oysters at Bentotte?"  My answer in the affirmative seemed to relieve the worthy medico of  all grave apprehension; and ordering me some simple remedies, he told me I had nothing to fear; and he was right , for soon after his departure I got rid of my pains and fell asleep. As a result Edward advised all future travellers not to be tempted by the oysters of Bentotte.

Today Bentota is home to a number of upmarket resorts and I still wouldn't eat the oysters. In fact in consequence of local food handling standards, I'd be reluctant to eat any seafood, anywhere in Sri Lanka,but more about that later.

We arrived in Galle mid afternoon and quickly located the Galle Star Hotel where we were staying. About 1.5km up the Wakwella Rd from Galle Fort, the Galle Star is more guesthouse than hotel. With only four rooms it is the 1940's open, Asian style house of the owner's grandmother, but it was comfortable and reasonably clean.