Back on Edward's Track

After five days we took the train from Nuwara Eliya down to Kandy, thus rejoining Edward's track, in Kandy. It took Edward a full day to travel the 100 or so kilometres from Colombo to Kandy and again this travel time has not reduced as much as might be expected. Thanks to roads full of tuk tuks, cars, buses and trucks, travel time can often be reduced to 20km/hr or less, and 30km/hr is considered a reasonable average. Even our train from Kandy to Colombo took four hours.

Stainton/Staunton's Hotel as it may have looked in Edward's time.

Edward stayed at what he called Staunton's Hotel in Kandy. This presumably was Stainton's Hotel which was originally a Governor's mansion and barracks, then a hotel, that in 1869 became what is now Kandy's best known Victorian hotel, the Queen's Hotel. (The Queen's appears to have been rebuilt a number of times so the current interior and exterior probably bear little resemblance to what was there in Edward's time.)  I hadn't been able to locate Staunton's prior to coming to Sri Lanka, otherwise I would have booked in there and instead we stayed at Amanda Hills Hotel, a pleasant tourist hotel overlooking Kandy lake and the town.

The Queen's Hotel today.

We did, however, decide on our first night in Kandy to have a drink and dinner at the Queen's. However, while there, Trish proved herself to be a true, delicate English lady by having a fit of the vapours. We had not long embarked on what I hoped to be a prolonged and pleasant buffet dinner when Trish looked across the table at me and said in slightly strangled tones "I need some fresh air. Can you help me outside." One look told me she was serious so I came round and took her arm to escort her out of one of the french doors that led to a cloister like outside footpath that ran down the side of the dining room. I was about to help her to sit on the low wall of the cloister when she passed out. Luckily the maitre d', a waiter and a security officer had all noticed that madam was having problems and had rushed over to join us and the maitre d' sent the waiter off for a chair and a glass of water. He also offered to send for a doctor but Trish who by then had come to, said she'd be ok before slumping down in the chair in a second faint. After some water and a little while sitting in the fresh air she professed herself ready to return to dinner but once back inside, it was clear that she wasn't going to cope. The dining room while being sumptuous and reasonably well served with fans, wasn't air conditioned and was was pretty stifling, so after a cup of tea and a little desert, we paid, summoned up a tuk tuk and headed for home.

Queen's Hotel dining room. We were seated in the central row with no fan. The French Doors out are to the left.

Prior to dinner, Trish had had a double shot Tom Collins on an empty stomach and while I suggested that could have been part of the problem, she maintained it was solely her delicate constitution, and the hot, airless nature of the dining room. (I suspect others observing our little drama unfold probably thought it was just another tourist enjoying a little too much local hospitality as well.)  Whatever, the cause it was a little alarming during the event but luckily she was fine once back in our air conditioned room. Pity too because I was looking forward to being on much better terms with that buffet.