Thanks For The Tip, Eddie Old Boy

We checked out of Nottetempo and caught a bus down the hill to Enna Basso. When we went to the bus ticket office in the cafe, the promised direct bus to Agrigento had evaporated but they now assured us that there was a bus that went to Caltanisetta, where we could change for Agrigento with no delay. The bonus was that this bus was leaving almost immediately. I had been nervous about this bus trip for a couple of days because of the way the schedule seemed to keep changing for no apparent reason but we figured "what the heck-give it a whirl". The bus gods were smiling now because the change at Caltanisetta was seamless and we arrived in Agrigento just after lunch.

We made our way to AgriCentro, the accommodation we had booked not far from the bus stop, although down a formidable set of stairs and were there met by the stylish and charming Erika who would meet and surpass all Edward's criteria for an attractive local.

In the afternoon we walked the main street of Agrigento and found our way up to their Cathedral which is large but quite plain. Edward had stayed at the Albergo bello di Napoli e Sicilia which though by no means worthy of it's ostentatious title, is more comfortable than the odious styes in which we have lately been compelled to lodge. There is still an Albergo di Napoli in Agrigento just below the Cathedral which one website describes as having been popular with visiting archaeologists in the 1920s so this may have been the same place. However, recent reviews were very unflattering, of the faded glory variety, and it currently appears to be undergoing renovation. Hence our choice of the more modern and functional AgriCentro apartments.

The Albergo di Napoli where Edward might have stayed. 

Like us Edward took a wander around town but his walk was cut short by the wind and threatening rain so he returned to our cheerless little room, That evening, however, Francisco made up for his recent poor selection of hotels with the unwonted sumptuousness of our evening's fare. He prepared a meal that he placed before us with no small display of pride and satisfaction (which) proved a solid consolation.

Edward describes Agrigento as only being interesting on account of the fine ruins of the ancient city that are to be seen in the neighbourhood. This is the Valley of the Temples which lies about 4 kms closer to the coast than Agrigento and it really is worth a visit. I have mentioned before that Edward, despite apparently having no formal education, being taught at home by his parents and possibly the occasional tutor, had a very fine classical knowledge. I had 12 years of school and another 5 of university and consider myself well read. However, prior to learning of Edward's visit here, I had never heard of Agrigento which has what are considered the finest Greek temple ruins after the Parthenon in Athens. I'm grateful to Edward for bringing them to my attention.