We Share Some History, This Town & I

Thus spoke Don Walker in his Cold Chisel song Flame Trees, which prior to me becoming interested in Edward, was pretty well the sum of my knowledge about Grafton. Walker spent time here as a child and wrote the song about his memories of the town. It's better known for it's jacaranda trees but I guess that didn't scan as well. (As a side note, I've long thought that Don Walker has not received sufficient acclaim in his role as the Banjo Patterson of the latter end of the 20th century. His lyrics are the bush poetry of those times, telling very Australian stories of ordinary lives. Well done Don.)

Gwydir Hwy at Heffron Lookout, overlooking Mann River a tributary of the Clarence.

We arrived here mid-week, driving down the incredibly scenic (it has world heritage listing apparently) Gwydir Hwy through the Gibralter Range & Washpool National Parks.

We're staying for the next month or so at the Gateway Caravan Park on the northern outskirts of town. Grafton is one of the most well treed places I've ever been with jacarandas, flame trees, huge Australian figs, palm trees and many more. There are also lush manicured gardens everywhere and this caravan park is no exception. Built around a central lillypond it's very reasonable at $22/night.

The lillypond at the Gateway Village. There's a telly in the gazebo where I froze last night watching Richmond destroy the Dockers hopes of 10 wins in a row!

Our "camp" at the Gateway. Bet it beats Edward's overnight camps.

It is also part park home park and I can only assume the price structure is to get the oldies in so they can be tempted by the joys of park living. With a swimming pool, tennis courts (don't even play tennis) and immaculate amenities block, kitchen, BBQ etc I'm tempted myself. Trish is currently off at Bingo in the recreation room so once she's addicted to that, we might move in. The only disconcerting note is the neat and politely worded signs around the place warning of "instant dismissal" (I think they mean eviction) for various offences against park policy. (I hope sarcastic blogging isn't one of those offences because I really do like the place.) Still it's given me a new lexicon and I now threaten Trish with "instant dismissal' if she does anything that annoys me.

An incredible avenue of fig trees in Breimba St, Grafton.

Grafton at just under 20,000 people is a little smaller than Albany but what it does share with us is an absence of traffic lights and a plethora of roundabouts in their place, plus no paid parking.  I could love the town for this alone. Perhaps we should develop a sister city relationship between the two places!

On arrival in town I visited the Clarence River Historical Society HQ and museum to start doing some local research. When I explained what I am doing I was very warmly received, being told several times "you're important". Made me feel like royalty.

Schaeffer House, c1900. 

We also visited the Grafton Regional Art Gallery because they currently have an exhibition of 1870's photo's by John William Lindt of Aboriginal residents of the Clarence Valley. The Gallery staff were also very helpful when I explained my project and have given me contact details of people in the local Original Australian community who may be able to help me locate stories about Ogilvie and Tindal and perhaps descendants of either.

Prentice House, c1880, a former Drs house bequeathed to the city to become its art gallery.

When Edward first arrived on the Clarence, Grafton was little more than a camp at South Grafton and it doesn't seem that there was much more when he left on his trip in 1854. I can only find a few buildings in town that pre-date 1860 at this stage. It did grow hugely during the years after his return although I gather that there was no love lost between him and the city fathers here. Edward favoured the town of Lawrence about 30kms downriver so I will visit there soon.

The Anglican Deanery & Parish Office which are about the only buildings I could find in town that pre-date 1860.